Letter: Sad To Think of the Demise of Local Hop Growing

Published on: 17 Sep, 2026
Updated on: 17 Sep, 2026

Hops appeared to be growing well in Puttenham in 2025. Picture by David Rose.

From David Roberts

In response to: Hop Growing Ends at Puttenham – And a History of its Cultivation in Farnham Area

In the late 18th century, the pioneering nature writer Gilbert White had much to say in his Natural History of Selborne about the cultivation of hops, as does Jenny Uglow in her fascinating recent commentary, A Year With Gilbert White. They were a major crop throughout the county border area around Farnham.

Unlike Kentish oast houses, the local drying kilns were square, like small barns. A painting by Swiss artist Hieronymus Grimm shows women and girls climbing ladders in August and September to load the hops to be dried on horsehair mats laid on wooden slats above fires set at ground level.

It is as sad to think of hop farms being swept away by executive housing as it is comforting to know that hop-pickers’ dermatitis is no longer a scourge of the local female population.

Responses to Letter: Sad To Think of the Demise of Local Hop Growing

Nigel Fielding Reply

September 17, 2026 at 3:09 pm

I enjoyed the flourish at the end of David Roberts’ letter but I can’t see anything in the Puttenham Hops article to which the area previously under hops will be used for executive housing. Not that I’m a fan of the latter.

The statement by the Hampton Estate about what may come next for the land that was given over to hops refers to favouring something that “is good for the soil, good for the community, and able to stand on its own feet as a business”.

I wonder if Mr Roberts’ is aware of the Hogsback Brewery hop garden. Admittedly production is limited but they grow three varieties of hop for use in their own beers (and I seem to recall from the brewery tour that some is provided to other brewers).

The varieties include Farnham White, which apparently makes Hogsback the only place currently growing it. Hop production has actually been increased at the Hogsback site.
- Tony Harrison Reply
  
  October 1, 2026 at 11:04 am
  
  It’s already happened. The whole area opposite the brewery is now a huge and horrible housing estate. Doubtless, more will follow.
Gwyneth Rushton Reply

September 18, 2026 at 8:23 am

The Hop Gardens were a delight at this time of year and the whole hop growing business made paid work opportunities for local people.
- David Roberts Reply
  
  October 3, 2026 at 2:22 am
  
  Not just locals but, as I believe Gilbert White noted in his journals, gypsies and foreign seasonal workers.